Sunday, October 7, 2012

My Last Week in Zuleta


Today I am finally going to Quito, and I just realized that I can't really upload pictures to the blog from my tablet, so I'm going to try and blast this out on the guest computer before I go.

Last Monday (10/1) the new volunteer, Katherine, arrived. I helped show her around, taught her how to wash the rabbit cages, and basically overwhelmed her with information. Stephanie was still entering in her data until like 1pm, so she and Savannah didn't end up leaving until the afternoon. Other than that, it was a pretty chill day.

This little guy is about a month old.

Me with Coya (wings spread) and Tarishka!
Tuesday we went to the condors, and Sarah said since the condors knew me pretty well by now I could probably go and take a picture in one of their cages! So Miguel took us into Coya and Tarishka's cage. They are a really sweet couple. They don't seem to fight, they're very affectionate, and seemingly the best couple to take a picture with. They seemed a little nervous, so they flew to the back of the cage, but I still got some good shots! About an hour later I heard crunching up on the hill behind the cages, and I looked up and saw an Andean Bear! He was super cute, and pretty close. Very cool for Katherine's first day. That night we had dinner with Fernando, part owner of the Hacienda Zuleta, and another grandson of ex-president Galo Plaza Lasso. He was really friendly and I liked him a lot. I don't know if I mentioned this before, but I extended my stay until Friday, and then even more until Sunday (today). Sarah told me later that Fernando said I could stay the extra nights for free! That's right, the grandson of a president likes me.


Reina Pacha! Isn't she cute??
Wednesday we went to the condors again, and this time Miguel let me into Reina Pacha and Ruco's cage! That was a little bit terrifying because Ruco likes to beat up on Reina Pacha, so I didn't want to get in the middle of that. When we walked into the cage, Ruco was standing about 4 feet from me. He was huge. Miguel had fun and was wiggling his fingers at him, but he's worked with them for 10 years, so they know and trust him. Meanwhile, Reina Pacha saw me and started wandering over right to me. If I hadn't gone to the bathroom right beforehand, I think I might have peed my pants. These condors can rip open the side of a cow with their beaks, and one of them was walking right to me. I jumped back so fast I was practically standing on Miguel's toes. Miguel put food out and I got to see them eating from only a few feet away, it was crazy! Plus, they're kind of cute up close. You can see all of their feathers, their heads are kind of fuzzy, and Reina Pacha was looking me up and down to figure out who I was. I loved it. I found out later that she does that... just walks up to new people because she's curious. I don't know why no one thought to tell me this BEFORE I was in the cage with her, but oh well. I got a lot of pictures of them, as well as video! It was a very exciting morning. That afternoon I had a photo shoot with the little brown calf behind our house. The black one is my favorite, but she was too shy. The brown one loves me though! I think now she's tied for favorite. And then there is Marco's calf, Stephanie, who I love because I feed her and she's named after me. I love calves, if that wasn't obvious. Oh yeah, while I was taking pictures of us, their owner came out to feed them, and she saw me and started laughing a bunch. I guess not many people go to take pictures with them...


Thursday was a normal condor day. Sarah cleaned the house during the day and found a lot of spare things in the empty room next door, so she decorated a bunch. I also finished the book Nights in Rodanthe, which was pretty good and a fast read.


The 2nd (of 3) litters! These guys are 2 weeks old.
Friday it rained while we were up at the condors which wasn't very fun. It was also super annoying because it rained a bit, then the sun came out and we had to strip off our wet-weather gear and put on sunscreen. Then it started raining 30 minutes later. Sheesh! I said goodbye to Miguel because we don't normally run into him on the weekends, and I think he was pretty sad because I was the only September researcher who spoke any Spanish, and so he talked with me a lot and taught me Kichwa. He wrote one more Kichwa phrase in my notebook, but I need to figure out what it means! That afternoon we fed the rabbits, and I milked Marquesa for the last time. Marco had to help load a truck with huge sacks of animal feed or something (this was a huge truck - like a semi-truck), so he was running late. He was finishing up in the garden so Yolanda (his wife) came out to milk Marquesa, so I got to milk with her! Then I fed Stephanie for the last time. She loves me (even moreso when I have milk). She even wiped her milky face all over my pants. Thanks. Then there was a lot of work drama. It was perfect timing for me because I got my month in of good work and then got to see some craziness in my last days, but poor Katherine didn't want to have to deal with it for 5 weeks, so she said she would be leaving beginning of this week. That night we stayed in the guest TV room chatting and drinking wine with Daniel and a tour guide. Later Daniel taught Katherine and I how to salsa and merengue (sp?)! It was a very fun way to end a crazy day.

Saturday Katherine and I did our last walk up to the condors, so we were taking pictures of everything (things I probably have a dozen pictures of already). Ximena met us up there later in the morning with another week-long volunteer from the university. We taught him how to do ethograms, and then we did some (when we could). It rained so much that day! At one point we saw a wall of rain moving up the valley, so we had to seek refuge in the little information house for tourists. When there was a break in the weather we high-tailed it back to the hacienda to feed the rabbits. That afternoon I finished my last ethogram sheet (it's amazing how much faster you are after 5 weeks) and started packing, and then we went to dinner. When we were leaving, we asked Daniel if we could have another wine night, and Yolanda said there was a party down the road that we should go to. So Daniel came by the house to get us around 10 (we were all snuggly by the fire and didn't want to move, but I am so glad that we did).

The huge, hand-made tower that they exploded.
We walked 20 minutes down the road and ended up at another hotel. They were shooting off fireworks to announce that that was where the party was (all this time I thought people were just like... shooting animals in the middle of the night). I now understand why fireworks are illegal in a lot of places. These people were just shooting them all willy nilly. I'm so glad it rained for 2 days, because I bet the house would have caught on fire. They were shooting them up next to the trees, sometimes they didn't go up enough and so they exploded on the ground, people were holding them and letting them off in the middle of the courtyard, the burning bits rained back down onto people... it was nuts. Katherine and I were horrified, but the other volunteer guy just said "it's not fun if it's not dangerous". When we got there they were setting up this huge tower that Daniel said they were going to burn later. They didn't set it on fire, but it was covered in hand-made designs of sparklers and stuff, so it just exploded everywhere. Some poor guy stood under it and spun it around the whole time, another stood with a very long pole to light different sections of it, and then a bunch of crazy people walked in a circle underneath it, holding their jackets over their heads so at least some part of them was "protected". It was crazy and amazing.


The child on her back was out cold... even with fireworks.
We got drinks, which were interesting because they were in a plastic bowl basically, and you got plastic cups the size of shot glasses, and you just drank little cupfulls from your bowl. I have no idea what that drink was, but there were different tables of people selling it at different levels of alcohol content. It was also crazy because people here (in Zuleta, that is) just share their drinks with everyone else, and they kind of expect the same (I guess you can do that in a place this small, where you know everyone and everyone else knows you). There was an old grandmother (sidenote: everyone was at this party -- adults, grandmothers, children, dogs... there were quite a number of people dancing around with sleeping children on their back) in the middle of a dance circle handing out her little plastic cup as people passed by, and then later she tapped Daniel on the shoulder to have some of ours. A son of the hotel owners, Sebastian, came over and offered us drinks to welcome us to the hotel. He also said that this party only happens twice a year, and it just happened to be on my last night in Zuleta. How amazing is that???

So blurry, but this is the guy holding the cow.
Anyways, the dance circles were also fun and interesting - it's literally a small group of people that move around in a circle and occasionally change directions. Plus we were moving around so much that the dirt between the cobblestones, which was already damp from the rain earlier, was turning to mud beneath our feet. By the end of the night people (the drunk ones, mostly) were slipping around the circles. Just before the end of the party, some guy came out holding a wooden frame thing with a cow hide stretched over it, and sparklers on the hand-made face, tail, etc. Then they lit the cow and this guy danced around in the center of the courtyard with sparks flying all over, with people running out of the way to avoid being completely hit with them (again, Zuletenas are all about the safety).

The band!

After that the party was basically over (this was around midnight), but the band (they had a full band with trumpets, trombones, percussion, saxophones, clarinets, etc.) started playing and walking out the courtyard. Turns out they were leading us to the next party! So we followed them down the road, with them playing the entire time, until we got to another party. This one was much smaller, and it looked to be out of someone's ... side yard, if you could call it that. They had 4 or so guys playing music and singing, more of the same bowl drinks, and it seemed like there was more dancing here, but it could've just been because it was in a much smaller area. When we got there we ran into Yolanda, Marco, Ramiro (who works with Marco), and other guys from the hacienda. Yolanda, Ramiro, Daniel, and I did some circle dances for a while (Marco refused - he hates dancing,  even  especially when a crazy white girl is waving wildly and shouting in what little Spanish she knows). There were more fireworks and sparklers, and Katherine and I kept diving out of the way (much to the amusement of the locals), but later we did one ourselves! It was basically a little wheel of sparklers on a thin wire, and each of us held an end of the wire and swung it around. It was a lot of fun, but very smokey. Daniel and I danced some more with the other hacienda workers, and then we all headed home around 4. What an amazing way to spend my last night in Zuleta! I'm definitely going to miss this place like crazy.


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